Sock September

Toe-Up Gusset Heel

In today’s video we take a look at a toe-up gusset and heel flap heel. You can work a heel flap and gusset on a toe-up sock exactly the same way as for cuff-down. The heel will look “funny,” though, since it will be upside-down. But it would fit fine! Instead, however, there is a way to work a toe-up heel flap and gusset that looks more like one would expect.

Here’s the video:

If you’d like to try this heel out, here’s a tutorial pattern to try:

Tutorial Pattern:

Work Sock Heel Homework first (found here), or work from a prior heel in the series.

Setup Rnd: K20, pm, knit to end of rnd, pm.


Rnd 1: Knit to marker, sm, k1, LLI, knit to 1 st from end, LRI, k1. 2 sts increased.

Rnd 2: Knit.

Rep Rnds 1 and 2 until you have 60 sts on the needle. Place removeable markers 10 stitches in on either side of the sole – marking 10, 20, 10 stitches on heel and sole side.

Heel Turn

Setup: Knit to first marker, sm, knit to second marker, sm.

Row 1 (RS): K18 across heel, w&t.

Row 2 (WS): Purl to 2 sts before marker, w&t.

Row 3 (RS): Knit to one st before wrapped st, w&t.

Row 4 (WS): Purl to one st before wrapped st, w&t.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 four more times. Six sts wrapped on each side of heel turn.

Final RS Row: K6, knit across wrapped stitches, concealing wraps (to hide them), until last wrapped st, conceal wrap and ssk the wrapped stitch with the next stitch. Turn. 59 sts.

Final WS Row: Slip 1, purl to first wrapped st, conceal wraps across to last wrapped stitch, conceal wrap and p2tog the wrapped stitch with the next stitch. Turn. 58 sts.

Heel Flap

Row 1 (RS): Slip 1, knit across to 1 st before marker, ssk, removing marker, turn. 57 sts.

Row 2 (WS): Slip 1, purl across to 1 st before marker, p2tog, removing marker, turn. 56 sts.

Row 3: Slip 1, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, turn. 1 st dec

Row 4: Slip 1, purl to 1 st before gap, p2tog, turn. 1 st dec

Rep Rows 3-4 six more times. 42 sts

Next Rnd: Slip 1, knit to 1 st before gap, ssk, k1, sm, knit across instep, sm, k1, k2tog, knit to end of sole. 40 sts

Work 6 rnds in stockinette st to give separation for next heel. Remove all markers.

Leave sts on the needle for the next heel.

LLI – left lifted increase. Using left needle, from behind, pick up left leg of stitch two rows below first st on right needle, then knit into it.

LRI – right lifted increase. Using right needle, knit into right leg of stitch below first st on left needle.

w&t – wrap and turn – with yarn forward, slip next st purlwise to RH needle, move yarn back, slip st back to LH needle, turn work. Move yarn to back between the needles if you are now on a RS row.

concealing wraps – On knit side, insert RH needle under wrap from front and into st that was wrapped, knit the wrap and the st together. On purl side, insert RH needle under wrap from the backside and lift it onto the LH needle. Purl the wrap and the st together.


I hope this was informative! Let me know if you give this heel a try!

Stay tuned on Friday for the next post in the Sock September series! Until then, Happy Sock Knitting!


3 thoughts on “Toe-Up Gusset Heel”

  1. Hello Heather! I’ve been on Ravelry – DukeofPurl – for awhile but inactive because of health reasons. I’m still knitting though and currently am trying to get a handle on your toe-up, gusset heel tutorial. I’ve got a sock on the go that I’d like to try your method on. However, I blew it doing your homework + tutorial. I got through the short rows OK, but the heel flap got me. I thought that I should ssk/p2tog until I got back to the CO stitch count. WRONG! Did you make a video showing how you went about doing this heel? Thanks & I sure enjoy your videos!

    1. Hi Duke! In looking at the pattern I realized I had a mistake in that heel flap– so I went in and changed it (you should repeat the heel flap rows until you have 2 more stitches than the cast on number), and I added stitch counts to hopefully help as well. I don’t have a video walking through this heel step by step yet. It’s in my “to film” list!!

  2. Hi Heather! Many thanks for this information. I wondered if you had a full toe-up sock pattern that incorporates this heel in the typical fingering weight stitch counts to include 64? I’d be very interested. 🙂


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